Monday 29th January (UK – Quito)
We arrived in Quito at 4pm local time after a 15 hour journey from Heathrow via Amsterdam. We were met at the airport by our guide Esteban and after a short delay, when it transpired that the luggage belonging to one of our group hadn’t left Amsterdam, we were taken by bus to our small hotel in the middle of Quito. Rooms were allocated, luggage transported and then we met for a beer in the small garden. A Rufous-collared Sparrow was calling from nearby and several Eared Doves flew around neighbouring roofs along with the occasional Great Thrush. Rather worryingly we had been warned by Esteban to make sure we were back at the hotel by 10pm so we only ventured a few hundred yards to find something to eat. We settled on an Ecuadorian speciality called Empanadas – which turned out to look and taste like Findus crispy pancakes! We were back at the hotel well before the suggested curfew.
Tuesday 30th January (Quito)
We returned to the hotel where we repacked in preparation for an early start in the morning and our flight to the Galapagos.
Wednesday 31st January (Santa Cruz)
When you arrive at the departures hall of Quito airport there is a special section reserved for visitors to the Galapagos. Here you go through additional baggage checks to ensure that you are carrying nothing that might prove a threat to the wildlife on the islands – indeed, one of our party had his wooden walking stick confiscated. Our group went through these and the normal security checks and were finally allowed to board our plane and 3 hours later, after a brief stop in Guayaquil, we landed on the island of Baltra, just north of Santa Cruz. As we walked across the tarmac to the airport buildings I noticed several small brown birds in the scrubby bushes, Small Ground Finches; next to them a Galapagos Dove was scratching in the dirt; flying low over the airfield was a Galapagos Hawk – within a minute of getting off the plane I’d already seen three of the islands’ endemic species! In addition a Yellow Warbler appeared in the bushes – this was the charismatic little bird that we would see every day for the next 2 weeks.
Small Ground Finch
We collected our luggage without incident and were met in the arrivals hall by our guide for the next two weeks, Juan. He shepherded us on to what appeared to be an old school bus which took us the short distance to a ferry which in turn took us a few hundred yards across the channel to Santa Cruz. Here we were decanted into another, rather more comfortable bus and once Juan had satisfied himself that we were all on board, drove off inland. After about 45 minutes we turned on to a narrow track and progressed much more slowly. The reason quickly became clear: we were now in the highlands of Santa Cruz and it was here that we would find our first Giant Tortoises. Indeed the bus found several and had to carefully manoeuvre around those that decided that sitting on the track was a good idea. After much stopping and starting we finally arrived at our first destination – El Manzanillo ranch. Here we were kitted out with wellingtons and taken for the first of many walks by Juan. He started by pointing out a few of the birds: Small and Medium Ground Finches were the easiest to locate although difficult to tell apart as they have similar plumage (males all dark brown, females streaky) and are much the same size – it is only the size of the bill that gives their identity away and even after two weeks I still had problems separating them. Amongst the ground finches Juan pointed out a bird that had a paler body with dark head – this was a Small Tree Finch, irritatingly it too was on the ground. A larger, paler finch in branches above us was Vegetarian Finch; several Galapagos Flycatchers and Galapagos Mockingbirds put in the first of many appearances, these were to become two very familiar birds over the next few days. But of course the main attraction were the Giant Tortoises which we learnt were the Santa Cruz sub-species porteri. They were everywhere - at one stage I counted all those in sight and there were over 40 of them, many partially submerged in muddy ponds.
After the walk we had lunch before reboarding the bus and heading towards the island capital and the largest town in the Galapagos, Puerto Ayora. The bus dropped us off in the town and we walked about a mile to the Charles Darwin Research Station – effectively a Giant Tortoise breeding centre. The tortoises are arranged by sub-species and age ranging from very small to full adult. There is also a frankly rather weird air-conditioned mausoleum containing the remains of Lonesome George, the last of the Pinta Island sub-species of giant tortoise. After a couple of hours here it was time to walk back into Puerto Ayora and meet up with our boat. On the way back we saw our first Marine Iguanas lounging on a jetty – it would take quite some time before we actually saw them swimming!
Puerto Ayora is full of rather crappy tourist shops (‘I love Boobies’ T-shirt anyone?) but it is home to the now famous fish market where Brown Pelicans gather to fight over scraps of fish leftovers. We spent some time watching and photographing these birds before it was time to make our way to the docks and join up with our boat.
Brown Pelicans
We split into two groups to board two ‘pangas’ – the RIB boats with which we were going to become very familiar – and were taken out into the harbour to our home for the next two weeks, the ‘Astrea’. We were introduced to the crew, given a brief safety and ‘housekeeping’ talk by Juan and then shown to our cabins where our luggage was waiting.
The 'Astrea'
Thursday 1st – Wednesday 13th February
Each day for the next two weeks would follow a similar format. In the evening, just before dinner, Juan would take us through the daily checklist of what we had seen – birds, reptiles, mammals, insects, fish and plants. Then he would go through the itinerary for the following day giving us rough timings and telling us what we might expect to see, what we should take with us etc. Usually travelling between islands would be done at night to allow us the maximum time ashore and every morning we would wake up to different views. The day would be split between guided walks on the islands (Juan’s knowledge of the natural history and geology of the islands was immense) and snorkelling sessions. Occasionally we would sail between islands during the day and this was the perfect chance to search for cetaceans and seabirds.
Galapagos Sea-lion
South Plaza Island (1/2/18) – a tiny island just off the east coast of Santa Cruz which at first site looks rather desolate. Tall prickly-pear cacti (Opuntia) grow up from a rocky ground covered in red-brown carpetweed giving it an almost burnt appearance. On closer inspection, however, wildlife is everywhere. We see our first Lava and Swallow-tailed Gulls, Land Iguanas allow us to get incredibly close and the Sea-lions honk loudly from the shore. A Galapagos Short-eared Owl, presumably resting after a hard morning catching storm-petrels, glares at us from beside the track – again it is completely unphased by our approach. One end of the island terminates in steep cliffs and here we get views of nesting boobies (Nazca and Blue-footed), Red-billed Tropicbirds and Galapagos Shearwaters.
Swallow-tailed Gull
Santa Fe (1/2/18) – the 3 hour boat trip from S.Plaza was memorable for our first view of Bottle-nosed Dolphins, a small pod of which appeared distantly as we sat down for lunch. Magnificent Frigatebirds and Elliot’s Storm-petrels followed the boat allowing great in flight views and small flocks of Red-necked Phalaropes flew off as they were disturbed by the boat. Santa Fe provided our first opportunity to snorkel and we were soon seeing our first King Angelfish, Yellow-tailed Surgeonfish and Panamic Sergeant-majors. The walk on the island provided views of an Opuntia forest but sadly the endemic Santa Fe Land Iguana remained hidden.
Magnificent Frigatebirds
San Cristobal (2/2/18) – our first activity today was to explore the mixture of sandy and rocky
shoreline at Cerro Brujo on the north west coast of S. Cristobal. Several waders pottered around on the rocks including the American migrants Least Sandpiper and Semi-palmated Plover and the Galapagos subspecies of American Oystercatcher. A Lava Heron was hunting in the rock pools and allowed us to get close enough to see it spear a large guppy.
Lava Heron
After a couple of hours we were back on the Astrea heading to the south of the island with a brief stop on the way to snorkel at the iconic Kicker Rock. We dropped anchor after lunch at the encouragingly named Wreck Bay and the largest settlement on S.Cristobal, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. Here we boarded a coach which took us the few miles inland to the base of El Junco, a long extinct volcano. We climbed a pathway and some rickety wooden steps up to the rim of the volcano and then made a complete circuit of the flooded caldera. Good views of two Grey Warbler Finches was the avian highlight, one perching on a handrail just a few feet from us as we made the descent.
Grey Warbler Finch
We stopped for an hour in a bar back in the town of Moreno to access the wifi as much as to have a beer. I left the others there and wandered along the seafront looking for the endemic Chatham Mockingbird but with no luck – a Wandering Tattler on the shore cheered me up a bit.
Espanola (3/2/18) – our first destination on this our fifth island was a walk along the beach at Gardner Bay. Sea-lions, to which we were now accustomed, lolled about everywhere. On the rocks were the very colourful Espanola subspecies of Marine Iguana and darting amongst them the much smaller Lava Lizards, also a subspecies endemic to the island. In scrub at the back of the beach we found our only Green Warbler Finch (recently split from the Grey, seen on San Cristobal) and the endemic Hood Mockingbird. As we headed back down the beach we saw one mockingbird pecking at an open wound on a sea-lion’s tail – rather gruesome to watch and Juan said he had never seen this behaviour before.
Hood Mockingbird
We returned to the Astrea and whilst we had lunch sailed the short distance to the other side of the island to a place called Punta Suarez.
We clambered out of the pangas onto a slippery stone jetty and had to virtually tiptoe through the dozens of basking Marine Iguanas. The trail leads up to the top of some cliffs where, in the breeding season, hundreds of Waved Albatrosses breed – Espanola being their sole breeding site this was my only chance of seeing these beautiful birds. I wasn’t too hopeful as this wasn’t breeding season and the albatrosses were all meant to be out at sea. Happily at least three of the birds hadn’t got the message and had remained behind, one of which gave us some stunning fly-by views.
Waved Albatross
Nazca and Blue-footed Boobies were both nesting on the ground here and the trail wound its way through the various nesting sites. On the cliffs themselves were Red-billed Tropicbirds and Galapagos Shearwaters with Magnificent Frigatebirds patrolling, one carrying a freshly caught shearwater by the neck. This site is also famous for the spectacular ‘blowhole’ – a hole in the rocks where seawater sprays high in the air as waves hit the cliffs. This was the end of the trail and we headed back to the stone jetty and the Astrea.
Red-billed Tropicbird
Floreana (4/2/18) – another overnight trip meant we awoke anchored off Punta Cormoran, the northern tip of Floreana.
Here a sandy beach was regularly used by Green Turtles as a nesting site and as we walked along Juan found tracks leading to the back of the beach that had probably been made by an egg-laying female the previous night. The beach separated the ocean from a saltwater lagoon, home to a small number of Caribbean Flamingos. We could get quite close to a few of the birds and take photographs but several more were quite distant. The pathway took us up to a viewpoint overlooking the lagoon and we could see 17 flamingos in all.
Caribbean Flamingo
The path descended again taking us to another beach and here the turtle egg-laying activity was very apparent. The sand had dozens of large depressions where holes had been dug and refilled as the turtles deposited their eggs – a Great Blue Heron stalked around, presumably hopeful of the early emergence of a hatchling. Further along the beach a female turtle lay halfway between the sea and the egg-laying site, presumably a late arrival yet to lay her eggs. We were worried that she wouldn’t survive the day in full sunshine but Juan was unconcerned.
Green Sea Turtle
Our next stop was to be at the Devil’s Crown, the sunken remnants of an ancient volcano, and said to be one of the best snorkelling sites in the islands. The water here was beautifully clear, the fish abundant and easy to approach. The highlight was our first, thankfully fairly distant view of a White-tipped Reef Shark swimming slowly past.
Once again over lunch the boat was moved to another part of the island – the famous Post Office Bay. We went ashore and were told the origins of the post box here, whilst we sorted through the waiting letters – a few were taken for personal delivery once we got home. Here Juan spent some time to tell us the dark stories of previous settlers on Floreana, he was particularly descriptive about the vegetarian, toothless dentist and the German baroness and her 3 sex slaves! A few minutes walk from the post box Juan took us to the entrance of a cave; this had been formed whilst Floreana was still actively volcanic and was actually a huge lava tube. We were able to walk a few hundred yards into the tube until it dipped down and was flooded. Back at the beach we found a single Galapagos Penguin swimming and diving close to the shore being closely watched by a Brown Pelican. As the penguin chased a fish the pelican would fly above and dive down in an attempt to steal the penguin’s prey.
Once again over lunch the boat was moved to another part of the island – the famous Post Office Bay. We went ashore and were told the origins of the post box here, whilst we sorted through the waiting letters – a few were taken for personal delivery once we got home. Here Juan spent some time to tell us the dark stories of previous settlers on Floreana, he was particularly descriptive about the vegetarian, toothless dentist and the German baroness and her 3 sex slaves! A few minutes walk from the post box Juan took us to the entrance of a cave; this had been formed whilst Floreana was still actively volcanic and was actually a huge lava tube. We were able to walk a few hundred yards into the tube until it dipped down and was flooded. Back at the beach we found a single Galapagos Penguin swimming and diving close to the shore being closely watched by a Brown Pelican. As the penguin chased a fish the pelican would fly above and dive down in an attempt to steal the penguin’s prey.
Galapagos Penguin
Santa Cruz (5/2/18) – our first stop this morning was on the north-west coast of Santa Cruz at a site called Dragon Hill – so called because from a certain angle the hill supposedly looks like a dragon.
The trail winds between two brackish pools where we were told to look out for Flamingos and Black-necked Stilts but unfortunately there were none to be seen. In one of the more distant pools we could see the fins of some large fish splashing around which Juan identified as Yellow-tailed Mullet. The long trail took us through a cactus forest then up to the top of Dragon Hill from where there were stunning views over the ocean and the island. As we returned to the boat a small wader flew into one of the brackish pools – our only Western Sandpiper of the trip.
Santiago (5/2/18) – just a couple of hours in the boat over lunch took us to our next destination – Sullivan Bay. Here, just over 100 years ago, volcanic activity produced an immense lava field that stretches from the distant volcano right down to the ocean. We walked across the bare rock with Juan explaining the origins of the two types of lava pahoehoe and a’a’. The former creating loops and swirls, the latter like very sharp clinker. The landscape was barren for miles but here and there we could see life beginning to encroach onto the rock. The delicate-looking Lava Carpetweed was the first to arrive, threading itself through the cracks in the rock and outcrops of the more robust Lava Cactus were dotted around finding somewhere to put roots down even in this harsh landscape.
After the walk we had the welcome opportunity to snorkel along the edge of the lava field where it entered the ocean. Life here was far more abundant than on the surface with hundreds of fish – some of our group were lucky to come across and film two penguins swimming and diving in the deep water. That evening a large Galapagos Shark kept us company, swimming around the boat for several minutes, presumably attracted by the light.
Isabela (9-12/2/18) – the largest island in the group and the one where we would spend the most time. The Astrea was anchored off the main town, the rather characterless Puerto Vilamil. Lots of recent building work seems to be preparing the town for a tourist boom but there seemed to be hardly any tourists. In the morning we took a coach to the base of the Sierra Negra volcano. Here Juan gave us a brief talk about the island, although I was rather distracted by a number of large moths roosting in the rafters of the hut. During the talk an unusual looking small bird was flying around the hut – another of the Galapagos’ iconic birds, Woodpecker Finch.
Genovesa (6/2/18) – our longest overnight journey was the 50+ miles from Santiago to Genovesa and we woke just as the Astrea arrived in the natural harbour of Great Darwin Bay. For the birders the first bit of excitement was provided by a new species of storm-petrel flying around the boat. Instead of Elliot’s which had been with us for the past few days these were Wedge-rumped Storm-petrels and along with the familiar Magnificents we now had Great Frigatebirds in the air around us. Our first outing was up the Prince Philip’s Steps to view the large bird nesting colonies above. But first it was a new mammal – at the base of the cliffs a small and very vocal group of Galapagos Fur Seals was resting. Juan pointed out the thick necks of the males and the large eyes as ways to differentiate them from sea-lions.
Galapagos Fur Seal
At the top of the steps we were could see Great Frigatebirds displaying with their inflated red throat sacs along with another new species, the beautiful Red-footed Boobies which aren’t present on any of the other islands. We walked carefully through the colony, many birds were nesting within inches of the track and would peck at us as we walked past.
Red-footed Booby
A dense forest of the ubiquitous Palo Santo bordered the colony, here the mockingbirds were at their tamest, one even drinking from the water bottle of one of our group. We emerged from the trees at the top of a cliff along which clouds of the Wedge-rumped Storm Petrels were flying with various boobies, shearwaters and frigatebirds amongst them. Several ground finches flew amongst the scrub along the path and amongst them Juan spotted one of our targets for the day – Sharp-beaked or ‘Vampire’ Finch, so called for its unpleasant habit of drinking the blood of other birds. This one was behaving innocently enough, hopping around at our feet and pecking at the ground.
Sharp-beaked Finch
That afternoon our outing was somewhat different, landing on the sandy Darwin Bay beach, we walked along the coastline keeping our eyes open for the endemic subspecies of Marine Iguana. The trail took us up along the cliffs and looking down into the water we could see several large shapes moving – Black-tipped Reef Sharks. As we returned to the beach we finally spotted a single Marine Iguana sitting on a rock near to where we had landed.
Santa Cruz (7/2/18) – our third and final visit to this island started with an early morning refuelling stop at the north of the island, close to where we had started our travels. Once refuelled it was just a short trip to Black Turtle Cove where we boarded the pangas for a trip through the mangroves. The water was shallow and clear and we had fabulous views of Green Turtles, Eagle and Golden Rays and Black-tip Reef Sharks in the waters below us. Most excitement was reserved however for the 3 Hammerhead Sharks which put in a brief appearance. After a quick return to the Astrea we landed back on the island and boarded a bus for our second trip through Santa Cruz.
This time we went to Cerro Mesa, an ancient volcano with superb views across the caldera and the rest of the island. We then had lunch in a local restaurant overlooking a small pool with wallowing Giant Tortoises and our first Black-necked Stilts and Purple Gallinules. From here it was a return to Puerto Ayora to meet up with the Astrea and start our second week in the Galapagos.
Black-necked Stilt
Sombrero Chino (8/2/18) – separated from Santiago by just 100 yards of sea the island is named after its distinctive ‘Chinese Hat’ shape. Snorkelling was superb as whilst the gap between the two islands is narrow it is nevertheless quite deep. Two Galapagos Penguins perched on the rocky sure were quite oblivious to our approach by panga and provided an excellent photo opportunity.
Rabida (8/2/18) – just an hour’s sail over lunchtime took us to this small island a few miles south of Santiago, the most notable feature is the bright, rust-red colour of the rocks and beaches. Again snorkelling was superb with the water crystal clear.
The walk up to the top of the volcano took some time but was worth the effort as we looked out across the second largest caldera in the world (only Ngorongoro Crater is larger). In the distance a few wisps of smoke could be seen, showing us that this in fact was not an entirely extinct or dormant volcano. Back on the bus for the trip back to Puerto Vilamil a few of us were lucky enough to see a brilliantly coloured male Vermillion Flycatcher before it flew into cover. Back in town we visited a tortoise breeding centre followed by a walk through some wetlands where Caribbean Flamingos and Black-necked Stilts were very approachable. The path ended at the beach and we all ended up in Juan’s favourite beach bar to sample the recommended ‘Coco Loco’ – a fresh coconut with rum added.
Overnight the boat sailed around the southern end of Isabela
to Punta Moreno. Juan had told us the night before that here would be our first
chance to see the Flightless Cormorant and as I looked out from the Astrea 3 or
4 of the birds could be seen swimming and diving. As the pangas took us ashore
we got incredibly close views of these birds as they perched and preened on the
rocks. One or two were drying their feathers in the typical cormorant
‘crucifix’ pose showing their stunted and rather tatty-looking wings.
Flightless Cormorant
The
landscape was again obviously volcanic with sheets of black pahoehoe and a’a’
lava. Here and there caverns had collapsed leaving craters that had filled with
water and become oases of vegetation. We knew the pools were connected underground
to the sea but it was still a surprise to see a White-tipped Reef Shark swim
past, several hundred yards from the open ocean. Less unexpected were various
water birds – Caribbean Flamingo, Blue-winged Teal and White-cheeked Pintail
and at one stage a Great White Egret flew overhead. Very distantly we had our
only view of two Galapagos Martins flycatching over one of the pools. Snorkelling
in the bay was also very productive with cormorants and penguins appearing
briefly together with the usual cast of fish. Over lunchtime the boat took us a
few miles along the coast, this time anchoring in the huge Elizabeth Bay. Our
main activity this afternoon was another quiet panga trip through the mangroves
where the highlight was the appearance of a Dark-billed Cuckoo.
Dark-billed Cuckoo
Once again overnight the boat took us northwards along the
coast of Isabela and when we awoke we were in Urbina Bay. Our walk this morning
took us inland to the raised beach – an earthquake in the 1950s lifted the
whole area several feet leaving land that was previously underwater exposed.
Here were the largest Land Iguanas to be found in the Galapagos with the males
a stunning bright yellow.
Land Iguana
We
managed to find just one tortoise, the Isabela subspecies known as the Alcedo
Giant Tortoise. That afternoon we had moved further up the coast to Tagus Cove
where a short but steep walk gave us fabulous views of the famous Darwin Crater
Lake, the Wolf Volcano and, distantly, a tiny patch of mangrove swamp. This was
the closest we would get to the highly endangered Mangrove Finch which is now
restricted to this one spot and is though to be down to less than 60 pairs.
Another day, another island – first thing in the morning the
boat made the short trip across the Bolivar Channel to Punta Espinosa on
Fernandina, the newest of the Galapagos and still actively volcanic. It really
should be known as Marine Iguana island, they were everywhere, and we were able
to see them swimming, digging nest holes but mainly just basking in the sun.
Fernandina Marine Iguana
Penguins
and Flightless Cormorants were on the rocks and snorkelling here was perhaps
the best of the trip with close-up encounters with Green Turtles and a very
playful sea-lion. It was then back to the boat for a longer than usual daytime
trip back across the Bolivar channel to our final stop on Isabela – Punta
Vicente Roca. We had been warned to keep an eye out for dolphins, whales and
even Whale Sharks but in the end we just had rather distant views of a large
pod of Common Dolphins. We had been told to look out for Mola-mola (Sunfish)
near Punta Vicente Roca and within a few minutes of dropping anchor we saw
several of the tell-tale fins protruding from the water – unfortunately,
despite getting quite close on occasion we never saw more of these giant fish
than the fin. No landing was possible as the area was sheer rock face but lots
of birds were nesting here so the pangas took us for a trip along the cliffs
and we had excellent views of Common Noddy, Nazca and Blue-footed Boobies and
our final views of Flightless Cormorants and penguins before finally leaving
Isabela. As we headed back to the Astrea a pod of Bottle-bosed Dolphins
suddenly appeared and swam alongside our two pangas before disappearing again
as fast as they had appeared.
Bottle-nosed Dolphin
It was now late afternoon and we had a long
trip across the equator and around the north of Isabela before heading south
again to Santiago for the final full day of our Galapagos trip. Isabela had one
final treat for us though. This is the best area in the Galapagos to find the
rare Dark-rumped Petrel and we scanned every passing shearwater before finally
spotting two of our target birds flying past.
Santiago (13/2/18)
– having crossed back south of the equator overnight we awoke off north west
Santiago in Puerto Egas. The morning walk took us along the rocky coastline
where we had a final chance to see Fur Seals, along with the ubiquitous
sea-lions and the Santiago subspecies of Marine Iguana. A rocky inlet, near the
disappointingly named Darwin’s Toilet, hid 3 roosting Yellow-crowned Night
Herons.
Yellow-crowned Night Heron
Over
lunch we sailed around the northern end of Santiago to the tiny island of
Bartolome, accompanied for a short time by some Bottle-nosed Dolphins riding
our bow-wave. Our final snorkelling trip was around the base of the famous
Pinnacle Rock with the usual host of fish species and, on one occasion, a
White-tipped Reef Shark swam slowly past a few yards below.
Seymour Norte (14/2/18) – a final overnight trip took us back,
almost, to where we started. Seymour Norte is a tiny island just north of
Baltra where the airport is located. A very short, early morning trip ashore
gave us fabulous views of displaying Blue-footed Boobies and Great Frigatebirds
with red neck-balloons fully inflated. A wonderful final look at Galapagos
wildlife.
Blue-footed Booby
(map thanks to Keith Tynan)
Thursday
14th February (Galapagos – Quito)
After saying our goodbyes to the crew of the Astrea and to
our excellent guide Juan we had an uneventful return flight to Quito. We were
met by Gustavo (who would be our guide for the following days trip to Antisana)
and taken by bus to the nearby Garden Hotel San Jose in Puemba, a district of
Quito. After being allocated our rooms we went out into the gardens, only
stopping off at the bar first. Here I finally found my first hummingbirds of
the trip, Sparkling Violetears at the feeders. A pair of Golden-rumped Euphonia
were in the tree tops and a Crimson-mantled Woodpecker was picking insects from
the hotel wall. With Grey-green Tanager and Tufted Tit-tyrant also found in the
brief period before dark I could happily have stayed at this hotel much longer.
Sparkling Violetear
Friday 15th February (Antisana Volcano)
It was a very early start and after a two hour coach trip we
were at our first stop just outside the Antisana Ecological Reserve. We looked
across a deep valley to the rocky cliff-face opposite where Gustavo was hoping
to find some Andean Condors still at roost. Unfortunately they had all moved
out for the day but their roosting spots were obvious from the extent of white
droppings against the black rock. We moved a short way further on to a small
café where we sat watching hummingbird feeders whilst drinking coffee.
Sparkling Violetear were the most numerous but amongst them there was a regular
Giant Hummer and the very impressive looking Black-tailed Trainbearer with a
tail longer than its body.
Black-tailed Trainbearer
We drove further on, entering the reserve
itself and heading towards the ‘paramo’, the treeless plateau in the high Andes,
with the snow-covered Antisana volcano looming above. We stopped at regular
intervals finding the rare Black-faced Ibis close to the road together with
Andean Lapwings and Andean Gulls.
Black-faced Ibis
At a ‘convenience’ stop we found Tawny
Antpittas to be ridiculously approachable but the endemic Ecuadorian Hillstar
less so as it sped from one side of the road to the other permitting us only
brief views. We descended to a large lake and had distant views of a juvenile
Silvery Grebe and even more distant views of Andean Ruddy Duck. This was the
halfway point and we started to retrace our tracks. Chestnut-winged Cinclodes had been seen several times but finally the very similar Stout-billed Cinclodes also showed well.
Chestnut-winged Cinclodes
Gustavo, our guide, spotted a Condor distantly but was unable to get anyone else onto it before it disappeared. Paramo Pipit remained frustratingly absent, resisting even a tape lure, although we got good views of Grass Wren using the same method. We returned to the café for a late lunch and, just as we walked in we saw through the building’s panoramic windows a Condor fly past, appearing to land out of sight on the cliff opposite. Despite trying to relocate it this was to be our only sighting. After lunch we gathered out on the veranda watching the hummingbirds – Tyrian Metaltail, Great Sapphirewing and Shining Sunbeam all being added to the list.
Gustavo, our guide, spotted a Condor distantly but was unable to get anyone else onto it before it disappeared. Paramo Pipit remained frustratingly absent, resisting even a tape lure, although we got good views of Grass Wren using the same method. We returned to the café for a late lunch and, just as we walked in we saw through the building’s panoramic windows a Condor fly past, appearing to land out of sight on the cliff opposite. Despite trying to relocate it this was to be our only sighting. After lunch we gathered out on the veranda watching the hummingbirds – Tyrian Metaltail, Great Sapphirewing and Shining Sunbeam all being added to the list.
Shining Sunbeam
Gustavo had set up his telescope pointing at
the cliff opposite and when he called me over I assumed he’d found a condor.
Even better, sat in the middle of the viewfinder was an adult Spectacled Bear
happily eating some flowers. Gustavo had mentioned that bear was a possibility
on the trip but none of us was expecting to see one – the perfect end to a
great day in the ‘paramo’.
Spectacled Bear
Saturday 16th February (Quito – Sacha Lodge)
Another
early start saw us being taken by coach the short distance to the airport. A
one hour flight took us to the town of Coca where we were collected and taken to the
river to board our motorized canoe. The boat journey down the Rio Napo was
somewhat disappointing. The boat was very fast, very noisy and didn’t stop for
anything. Cocoi Heron, Osprey and Greater Yellow-headed Vulture were all seen
well if briefly but mostly everything was too distant to be identified. After
two hours in the boat we had a 30 minute walk, mostly along a wooden walkway
followed by 20 minutes in a paddle canoe which finally saw us arrive at the
beautiful Sacha Lodge. We had a short briefing about the lodge and details of
our 3 day visit. Three of us had elected to go on the ‘hard-core’ birding trip
and we were allocated to our guide Shonshu, a native of one of the local
tribes. After a short period to settle in (during which we watched Squirrel
Monkeys and a Black-Mantled Tamarin from our balcony) we met up with Shonshu
for our first birding trip. Unfortunately rain started as soon as we left the
lodge and despite persisting for about half an hour we eventually gave up
having added nothing to our birdlist.
Squirrel Monkeys
Sunday 17th February (Sacha Lodge)
A
pre-dawn start saw us meet up with Shonshu for a quick coffee before setting
out. The rain had continued all night but as we walked through the jungle it
began to ease and finally stop. Our destination for the morning was to be the
Canopy Towers – a wooden walkway suspended at canopy level between three
towers. Initially viewing wasn’t great. The rain had stopped but low cloud
persisted eventually clearing after an hour or so. The morning consisted of four
sets of eyes scouring the surrounding canopy although chiefly relying on
Shonshu whose ability to spot and identify birds even at great distance was
phenomenal. Things were off to a slow start with oropendolas and caciques
flying from their overnight roosts but things soon began to heat up. A
Green-and-Gold Tanager showed well in treetops a few yards away whilst a small
group of Many-banded Aracari posed nicely somewhat futher away. Orange-winged
Parrot and Cobalt-winged Parakeets flew over whilst a smart Pied Puffbird sat
quietly in a neighbouring tree.
Pied Puffbird
After 3 hours we had added 50 new species to
our list and it was time to make our way slowly back to the lodge. Whilst
walking Shonshu pointed out White-browed Purpletuft and the beautiful
Wire-tailed Manikin; heading towards the source of a loudly calling bird after
15 minutes we finally found the culprit – the aptly named Screaming Piha.
Wire-tailed Manakin
After
lunch and a couple of hours break we were off again, this time to the Kapok
Tower. The first section of the trip was in a canoe paddled by Shonshu and by
the side of the lake we had excellent vies of Hoatzin and Black-capped
Donacobius. By the time we got to the tower it had started raining heavily and
once again no birds were showing although Shonshu did find a roosting
Tawny-bellied Screech Owl. The Kapok Tower is basically a platform built at the
top of a large Kapok tree so, like the Canopy Towers, fantastic views can be
had across the rainforest. We spent about an hour hoping for the rain to stop
but then gave up and went back to the lodge.
Hoatzin
Monday 18th February (Sacha Lodge)
The day started well with no rain and a boat trip to the
Yasuni clay lick where we had good views of several species of parrot. The boat
trip itself proved quite productive with Pied Plover and Yellow-headed Caracara
seen well and a group of three Roseate Spoonbill seen distantly. We had lunch
before entering the Yasuni National Park. Our ultimate destination was another
clay lick but first the birding group took a slow walk through the forest
resulting in great views of Black-spotted Bare-eye, Great-billed Hermit,
Rusty-belted Tapaculo and much more.
Black-spotted Bare-eye
By the time we got to the clay lick the others
had already been there for an hour and seen nothing. We waited for 2 ½ hours
and were finally rewarded with the sight of two Scarlet Macaws. With so much
else to be seen in the rainforest, especially given the disappointments of our
first two days, this really felt like time poorly spent. Our return trip to the
lodge produced some more birds of interest including Scarlet-crowned Barbet,
Chestnut-eared Aracari and Olivaceous Flatbill.
Scarlet Macaw
Tuesday 19th February (Sacha Lodge – Quito – London)
Our
final morning at Sacha was mostly taken up with packing, saying goodbyes and
paying the bar bill! We stayed in our birding group for the final paddle and
walk to the motorized canoe and had superb views of a Plumbeous Antbird and
Short-crested Flycatcher before the long trip home.
Galapagos Birdlist (e = endemic)
Elliot's Storm-Petrel - usually in small groups at see around all islands except Genovesa
Blue-footed Booby - singles at sea to large breeding colonies on land seen on all islands
Red-footed Booby - large numbers seen only on Genovesa
Yellow-crowned Night Heron - singles and small groups seen on all islands
Blue-winged Teal - c6 on tidal pools in Isabela (Punta Moreno)
Purple Gallinule - two on muddy pool in Santa Cruz (Cerro Mesa)
Black-necked Stilt - 2 on muddy pool in Santa Cruz (Cerro Mesa), c12 in Isabela (Puerto Vilamil)
Hudsonian Whimbrel - singles at several sites
Red-necked Phalarope - dozens disturbed from sea surface during daytime boat trips
Dark-billed Cuckoo - one in mangroves on Isabela (Elizabeth Bay)
Vermillion Flycatcher - single male seen briefly on Isabella (Sierra Negra)
Galapagos Martin (e) - pair seen distantly on Isabela (Punta Moreno)
Hood Mockingbird (e) - small numbers seen on Espanola
Large Ground-Finch (e) - small numbers only seen on Genovesa
Medium Ground-Finch (e) - small groups seen on all islands except Genovesa
Small Ground-Finch (e) - small groups seen on all islands except Genovesa
Large Cactus-Finch (e) - small numbers on Espanola (Gardner Bay) and Genovesa
Vegetarian Finch (e) - singles seen Santa Cruz (El Manzanillo and Cerro Mesa)
Large Tree-Finch (e) - singles on Santa Cruz (Black Turtle Cove) and Isabela (Urbina Bay)
Small Tree-Finch (e) - small numbers on Santa Cruz (El Manzanillo) and Isabela (Urbina Bay)
Woodpecker Finch (e) - one on Isabela (Sierra Negra)
Galapagos Penguin (e) - in singles and pairs on Floreana, Santiago, Isabela, Fernandina
Waved Albatross (e) - 2 adults and 1 juvenile on Espanola (Punta Suarez)
Galapagos Petrel (e) - 2/3 in flight over sea northwest of Isabela
Galapagos Shearwater (e) - often in large groups at sea around all islands
Elliot's Storm-Petrel - usually in small groups at see around all islands except Genovesa
Wedge-rumped Storm-petrel - several hundred flying off cliffs in Genovesa
Red-billed Tropicbird - small numbers off South Plaza, San Cristobal, Espanola and Genovesa
Brown Pelican - singles to small groups on all islands
Blue-footed Booby - singles at sea to large breeding colonies on land seen on all islands
Nazca Booby (e) -
Red-footed Booby - large numbers seen only on Genovesa
Flightless Cormorant (e) - singles and small groups seen on Isabela and Fernandina
Great Blue Heron - singles on Santa Cruz, San Cristobal and Santiago
Great White Egret - single over Isabela
Cattle Egret - singles and small groups on Santa Cruz, San Cristobal, Floreana and Isabela
Yellow-crowned Night Heron - singles and small groups seen on all islands
Caribbean Flamingo - small groups on Floreana and Isabela (Puerto Vilamil)
White-cheeked Pintail - small groups on all islands except Genovesa
Blue-winged Teal - c6 on tidal pools in Isabela (Punta Moreno)
Peregrine Falcon - one in flight on Santiago (Sullivan Bay)
Galapagos Hawk (e) - singles on Santa Cruz, Espanola, Isabela and Santiago
Galapagos Hawk (e) - singles on Santa Cruz, Espanola, Isabela and Santiago
Purple Gallinule - two on muddy pool in Santa Cruz (Cerro Mesa)
Common Moorhen - small numbers in Santa Cruz, San Cristobal and Isabela
American Oystercatcher - singles seen on most islands
Black-necked Stilt - 2 on muddy pool in Santa Cruz (Cerro Mesa), c12 in Isabela (Puerto Vilamil)
Grey Plover - 2 on rocks in Isabela (Puerto Vilamil)
Semipalmated Plover - singles at several sites
Hudsonian Whimbrel - singles at several sites
Wandering Tattler - singles at several sites
Ruddy Turnstone - small groups at several sites
Western Sandpiper - 1 on lagoon in Santa Cruz (Dragon Hill)
Least Sandpiper - 2 on rocks in San Cristobal (Cerro Brujo)
Red-necked Phalarope - dozens disturbed from sea surface during daytime boat trips
Lava Gull (e) - singles and pairs seen in San Cristobal (Cerro Brujo), Genovesa and Isabela
Laughing Gull - 1-3 in flight in Isabela (Elizabeth Bay)
Franklin's Gull - one briefly following boat in Isabela (Punta Moreno)
Swallow-tailed Gull (e) - singles and small nesting colonies seen on most islands except Isabela and Fernandina. Several birds also seen out at sea at night following the boat
Common Noddy - small numbers seen at most islands
Galapagos Dove (e) - small numbers seen on most islands
Dark-billed Cuckoo - one in mangroves on Isabela (Elizabeth Bay)
Smooth-billed Ani - small numbers on most islands
Short-eared Owl - singles roosting on South Plaza and Genovesa
Vermillion Flycatcher - single male seen briefly on Isabella (Sierra Negra)
Galapagos Flycatcher (e) - small numbers on most islands
Galapagos Martin (e) - pair seen distantly on Isabela (Punta Moreno)
Galapagos Mockingbird (e) - singles to small groups seen on all islands except San Cristobal, Espanola and Floreana
Hood Mockingbird (e) - small numbers seen on Espanola
Yellow Warbler - singles and pairs seen on all islands
Large Ground-Finch (e) - small numbers only seen on Genovesa
Medium Ground-Finch (e) - small groups seen on all islands except Genovesa
Small Ground-Finch (e) - small groups seen on all islands except Genovesa
Sharp-beaked Ground-Finch (e) - one seen on Genovesa
Common Cactus-Finch (e) - small numbers seen on South Plaza and Santa Cruz (Dragon Hill)
Large Cactus-Finch (e) - small numbers on Espanola (Gardner Bay) and Genovesa
Vegetarian Finch (e) - singles seen Santa Cruz (El Manzanillo and Cerro Mesa)
Large Tree-Finch (e) - singles on Santa Cruz (Black Turtle Cove) and Isabela (Urbina Bay)
Small Tree-Finch (e) - small numbers on Santa Cruz (El Manzanillo) and Isabela (Urbina Bay)
Woodpecker Finch (e) - one on Isabela (Sierra Negra)
Grey Warbler Finch (e) - 1 or 2 seen on San Cristobal (El Junco) and Genovesa
Green Warbler Finch (e) - 2 on Espanola (Gardiner Bay)
Galapagos Animal list
Giant Tortoise (Santa Cruz sub-sp) - El Manzanillo
Giant Tortoise (Isabela sub-sp) - Urbina Bay (Alcedo)
Green Sea Turtle - all islands
Lava Lizard - all islands except Genovesa
Land Iguana - Santa Cruz, South Plaza and Isabela
Marine Iguana - all islands except Floreana
Galapagos Sea-lion - all islands
Galapagos Fur Seal
Bottle-nosed Dolphin - pods seen on 3 occasions
Common Dolphin - pod seen near Isabela
Ocean Sunfish (Mola-mola) - several seen off Isabela (Punta vicente Roca)
Galapagos Shark - 2 sightings
White-tipped Reef Shark - seen frequently
Black-tipped Reef Shark - seen frequently
Scalloped Hammerhead Shark - 1 sighting
Ecuador birdlist
Silvery Grebe - one immature Micacocha Lake, Antisana
Cocoi Heron - one along Napo river
Great White Egret - one over Puemba hotel; several along Napo river
Snowy Egret - several along Napo river
Striated Heron - one by lake at Sacha Lodge
Black-crowned Night Heron - one by lake at Sacha Lodge
Black-faced Ibis - four in paramo, Antisana
Roseate Spoonbill - three along Napo river
Andean Duck - several distantly on Micacocha Lake, Antisana
Black Vulture - common over Quito and Napo river
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture small numbers over Napo river and Sacha
Andean Condor - one at Antisana roosting site
Osprey - two along Napa river
Osprey - two along Napa river
Swallow-tailed Kite - small group distantly from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Snail Kite - one by lake at Sacha Lodge
Double-toothed Kite - one on wires at Canopy Towers, Sacha
Plumbeous Kite - one or two from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle - one in Antisana
Variable Hawk - one in Antisana
Carunculated Caracara - several in paramo, Antisana
Yellow-headed Caracara - several along Napa river
American Kestrel - 3 by roadside in Quito
Crane Hawk - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Crane Hawk - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Speckled Chachalaca - one near claylick in Sacha
Spix's Guan - one from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Hoatzin - c6 by lake at Sacha Lodge
Purple Gallinule - one juvenile in botanic gardens, Quito
Common Moorhen - one in botanic gardens, Quito
Andean Coot - several on
Pied Lapwing - one on sandbank in Napa river
Andean Lapwing - c6 in paramo, Antisana
Spotted Sandpiper - one along Napa river
Andean Gull - several by Micacocha Lake and paramo, Antisana
Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon - small flock by cathedral in Quito
Pale-vented Pigeon - common around Sacha Lodge
Pale-vented Pigeon - common around Sacha Lodge
Eared Dove - common in Quito
Black-winged Ground Dove - single on roadside, Antisana
Scarlet Macaw - two at clay lick in Yasuni national park
Red-bellied Macaw - 5 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Dusky-headed Parakeet - small flock at clay lick on Napa river
Dusky-headed Parakeet - small flock at clay lick on Napa river
Cobalt-winged Parakeet - several small groups over Canopy Towers, Sacha
Blue-headed Parrot - small number at clay lick on Napa river
Blue-headed Parrot - small number at clay lick on Napa river
Black-headed Parrot - small group over Canopy Towers, Sacha
Yellow-crowned Parrot - small number at clay lick on Napa river
Yellow-crowned Parrot - small number at clay lick on Napa river
Orange-winged Parrot -
Mealy Parrot - several at clay lick on Napa river
Greater Ani - 3 seen following Squirrel Monkey group, Sacha
Tropical Screech-Owl - one flew over Sacha Lodge lake
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl - one roosting near Kapok Tower, Sacha
Short-tailed Swift - 2 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift - 2 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Great-billed Hermit - 2 in Yasuni national park
Straight-billed Hermit - 1 in forest around Sacha Lodge
Sparkling Violetear - several to feeders in Puemba hotel and Antisana
Shining Sunbeam - 1 at feeders in Antisana
Ecuadorian Hillstar - 2 at flowers in Antisana
Great Sapphirewing - 1 at feeders in Antisana
Giant Hummingbird - 1 at feeders in Antisana
Black-tailed Trainbearer - 2 at feeders in Antisana
Tyrian Metaltail - 1 at feeders in Antisana
White-tailed Trogon - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Ringed Kingfisher - 1 along Napa river
Pied Puffbird - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Black-fronted Nunbird - 2/3 in Yasuni national park
White-fronted Nunbird - 1 in Yasuni national park
Black-fronted Nunbird - 2/3 in Yasuni national park
White-fronted Nunbird - 1 in Yasuni national park
Scarlet-crowned Barbet - 1 along Napa river
Gilded Barbet -
Ivory-billed Aracari - 4 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Chestnut-eared Aracari - 2 along Napa river
Many-banded Aracari - 5 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Channel-billed Toucan - 2 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
White-throated Toucan - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker - 2 near clay lick on Napa river
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker - 1 in garden of Puemba hotel
Crimson-crested Woodpecker - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Crimson-crested Woodpecker - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Stout-billed Cinclodes - 1 in Antisana
Chestnut-winged Cinclodes - several in Antisana
Many-striped Canastero - 1 in Antisana
Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Straight-billed Woodcreeper - 1 near Kapok Tower, Sacha
Dusky-throated Antshrike - 1 in forest around Sacha Lodge
Black-faced Antbird -
Plumbeous Antbird - 1 near Sacha Lodge lake
Black-spotted Bare-eye - 1 in Yasuni national park
Tawny Antpitta - 2 in Antisana national park
Rusty-belted Tapaculo - 1 in Yasuni national park
White-browed Purpletuft - 1 in forest around Sacha Lodge
Screaming Piha - 1 in forest around Sacha Lodge
Spangled Cotinga - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Bare-necked Fruitcrow - 2/3 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Purple-throated Fruitcrow - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Wire-tailed Manakin - several in forest around Sacha Lodge
Tufted Tit-Tyrant - 3 in garden of Puemba hotel
Slender-footed Tyrannulet - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Olivaceous Flatbill - 1 in forest around Sacha Lodge
Drab Water Tyrant - 1 along Napa river
Plain-capped (Paramo) Ground-Tyrant - 1 in Antisana
Piratic Flycatcher - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Social Flycatcher - 1 in Yasuni national park
Grey-capped Flycatcher -
Great Kiskadee - several around Sacha Lodge
Streaked Flycatcher - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Boat-billed Flycatcher -
Tropical Kingbird - several from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Short-crested Flycatcher -
White-winged Swallow - common along Napa river and Sacha lake
Grey-breasted Martin - several nesting in roof of Sacha Lodge
White-banded Swallow - 2 near river Napa in Coca
Black-capped Donacobius - 2 by lake near Sacha Lodge
House Wren - 1 in Yasuni national park
Sedge (Grass) Wren - 2 in Antisana
White-breasted Wood-Wren - 1 in forest around Sacha Lodge
Great Thrush - common in Quito
Violaceous Jay - several from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Red-eyed Vireo - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Thick-billed Euphonia - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Golden-rumped Euphonia - pair in gardens of Puemba hotel
Orange-bellied Euphonia - 1 in forest around Sacha Lodge
Rufous-bellied Euphonia -
Silver-beaked Tanager -
Blue-grey Tanager - 2 in gardens of Puemba hotel
Palm Tanager - 1 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Turquoise Tanager -
Paradise Tanager -
Green-and-Gold Tanager - several from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Masked Tanager - 2 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Opal-rumped Tanager -
Opal-crowned Tanager -
Black-faced Dacnis - 2 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Yellow-bellied Dacnis -
Purple Honeycreeper - several from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch - 2 in Antisana
Plain-coloured Seedeater - 2 in Antisana
Black Flowerpiercer - 1 in Antisana
Saffron Finch - 1 in botanical gardens, Quito
Rufous-collared Sparrow - common in Quito and Antisana
Yellow-rumped Cacique - several nesting near Sacha Lodge
Russet-backed Oropendola - several from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Crested Oropendola - several from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Oriole Blackbird - 1 near clay lick on Napa river
Ecuador Animal list
Red Howler Monkey - 6 from Canopy Towers, Sacha
Red-tailed (Dusky) Titi - 1 in Yasuni national park
Squirrel Monkey - several large groups around Sacha Lodge
Black-mantled Tamarin - 2 with Squirrel Monkey group in Sacha Lodge
Spectacled Bear - 1 in Antisana
White-tailed Deer - 2 in Antisana
Black Agouti - 1 in Sacha Lodge
Tapeta - 1 in Antisana
Mouse sp. - 1 in Antisana
Long-nosed Bat - c10 roosting in Sacha Lodge
